BR Racing Blog

PCA Club Race – Nov 10-11, 2018

Final time at Buttonwillow Raceway in 2018. We have PCA Club Racing once more. We will be running the road course set up (configuration 13). 


Registration details will be posted a few weeks before the event. For Time Trial registration visit MotorsportReg. For club racing registration, visit the PCA registration website.

Need help or have questions?

PCA Club Race – Oct 27-29, 2018

Final time at Sonoma Raceway (Sears Point or Infineon or whatever you remember it as) in 2018. We have PCA Club Racing once more. We will be running the road course set up, on what many consider the most technical track in the Western United States.


Registration details will be posted a few weeks before the event. For DE registration visit MotorsportReg. For club racing registration, visit the PCA registration website.

Need help or have questions?
Registration questions: GGRRegistrar@gmail.com
Student or Instructor questions: GGRDEcdi@gmail.com
Club Race questions: GGRRacereg@gmail.com
GGR DE/TT Chair: GGRTTChair@gmail.com
Or, visit the GGR Online Community for some on-line bench racing:
http://bbs.pca-ggr.org/phpbb3/index.php

BRracing will be there…both with a large contingent of DE track customers (in the NASA DE run groups), along with a large group of race customers.  Come join us…great people, great event, great FUN!

BRracing – accelerating your JOY

PORSCHE RennSport Reunion VI – Laguna Seca – September 2018

PORSCHE RENNSPORT REUNION VI – 2018 – Laguna Seca

The sixth Rennsport Reunion will take place this year at Laguna Seca, and will be held September 27-30, 2018. PCA will take part in and help facilitate the festivities as it has in past Rennsport gatherings.

For those who may not know what, exactly, is a Rennsport Reunion, picture this: tens of thousands of car enthusiasts and hundreds of Porsches of all types on display and racing on track. Among the thousands of people scattered about the infield are famous race car drivers, engineers, designers, company executives — basically the who’s-who of the Porsche world.

PCA will provide a hospitality tent with refreshments and presentations by Porsche insiders for members in attendance.

At Rennsport Reunion V, PCA member-owned Porsches in attendance topped 1,300. PCA Club Racing contributed to the racing with its own run group, named the Sholar-Friedman Cup after PCA founder Bill Sholar and PCA Club Racing founder Allen Friedman. (Note – in which BRracing won!)

The first Rennsport Reunion was held in 2001 at Lime Rock Park in Connecticut, followed by the second and third at Daytona International Speedway in 2004 and 2007. The fourth and fifth Rennsports took place at Laguna Seca in 2011 and 2015, both of which attracted 40,000+ spectators. Given that Porsche has moved the event to many other locations, and has been on the West coast for the last two events, there is some speculation that the next Rennsport Reunion may move back to the East coast…..this may be the last time for many years to experience this amazing event.


“Choosing the Monterey Peninsula once again for our unique Porsche family reunion builds upon what we learned from previous Rennsport Reunions,” said Klaus Zellmer, President and CEO of Porsche Cars North America. “We had close to 80,000 fans, enthusiasts and owners come through the gates of Mazda Raceway Laguna Seca to celebrate with us in 2015, and California’s picturesque central coast provides an ideal backdrop. The Golden State as a whole has always been like a second home to Porsche.”

There is also the working rumor that Porsche is bringing the Porsche 919 Evo…not to just show, but to break the outright track lap record.  Porsche has done that this year at SPA and Nurburgring. Those two events have been mind blowing, such is the speed of the Porsche 919 Evo.

So, if you like Porsche’s, if you like Porsche race cars, if you like Porsche car racing, if you like to see all of Porsche racing history, if you want an experience of a lifetime, then being at Laguna Seca in late September needs to be on your calendar.   Come join us…. BRracing will have eight cars participating, and will have two of our SEMI transporters there, a full suite overlooking the front straight, and upfront exposure to the Porsche 919 Evo, and front seats for the record lap run.

Don’t delay, call or talk to us about this event.

BRracing – experiencing the JOY of driving…driving Porsche’s

PCA Club Race & DE Event – Sept 7-9, 2018

Final time at Thunderhill Raceway in 2018. We have DE and Club Racing once more. We will be running the traditional 3-mile east course on Saturday and Sunday, and the PCA Diablo region will be running the complete 5-mile course on Friday.

Registration details will be posted a few weeks before the event. For DE registration visit MotorsportReg. For club racing registration, visit the PCA registration website.
One Day Driving options available!

Need help or have questions?
Registration questions: GGRRegistrar@gmail.com
Student or Instructor questions: GGRDEcdi@gmail.com
Club Race questions: GGRRacereg@gmail.com
GGR DE/TT Chair: GGRTTChair@gmail.com
Or, visit the GGR Online Community for some on-line bench racing:
http://bbs.pca-ggr.org/phpbb3/index.php

BRracing will be there with both a large group of DE customers along with a large group of race customers…come join us.  Great event, great people, great FUN.

Oil Changes – Does Frequency Make a Difference?

Oil Changes – Does Frequency Make a Difference?

There seems to be a lot of contradictory information on oil changes.

(The picture above was from a BRracing customer who did not change his own regularly)

Most manufacturers are starting to promote longer oil change intervals. Why? Has some breakthrough been made that makes oil last longer, and the wear on the motor less? Or is this a game being played out in the market, to gain market share?

The answer is all the above. So, what should we know, or how should we manage the oil changes on our cars?

Market

In the ever competitive world of car sales, each manufacturer is trying to work all the little details to gain market share. Enter BMW in the early 2000’s, and their introduction of the “included maintenance” as part of the car purchase. Why did they do this? Research had shown that potential BMW customers were concerned that the ongoing maintenance costs of a BMW vs other cars was high. So, if they now included the maintenance, that removed the issue from the buyer. Now BMW was seen as less expensive to maintain than other cars. But, nothing changed on the car itself. BMW needed to keep the cost to themselves and the dealers down, so, they magically changed the service interval from every 7,500 miles to every 15,000 miles. As this market strategy has worked in BMWs favor, other car manufacturers are adopting some of the same elements. We see other manufacturers adopting the “included maintenance” solution, and at the same time, the service interval change (getting higher). Is this so bad?

Not for the car manufacturers. The downside to less frequent oil changes is wear on the motor and other lubricated parts. Who loses in this equation? The owner of the car once it reaches 100k miles, as the incremental additional wear on the motor will start to produce unwanted or unexpected results…..things will wear out sooner, or things will break sooner.

Evidence of this is now starting to become known. GM released a letter to owners of cars between the years of 2010 – 2012, to notify them that they may need to do oil changes more frequently than their computer or service display shows. Why? Because GM is starting to have to deal w more warranty claims on broken motors. They are offering to reprogram the software on the car to show the need for more frequent oil changes than before, to prevent these downside affects of extending the oil change interval.

BMW & MINI changed their direction in 2013.  The cars (BMW & MINI) built from 2000 – 2015 have a computer based service reminder, and that reminder has an oil change interval of 15k miles.  Due to issues seen, BMW & MINI changed this requirement back to once a year, or every 7,500 – 10k miles, but did NOT update the software in the car to reset this service reminder.  They left the car owner to understand this change on their own. Starting in 2017, BMW & MINI cars computer service reminders for oil changes now state every 10k miles, OR, it can be changed by the dealer or independent service center (like BRracing) to the customers desire, as long as it is lower than 10k miles.

Now, we as independent shop service centers are seeing the evidence as well. We (BRR) are now dealing w replacement motors, highly worn parts on a weekly basis. The fundamental shift in oil change intervals has taken about 8 years to work its way into the market, but the results are clear. Cars and motors are not lasting as long, and not like before, where if you took good care of the motor, it could last well over 300k miles. Now motors and other parts are requiring replacement in the 120k – 200k range. Again, the car manufacturers don’t really care, as the owners of the cars at that age are not the next new car customer for the car manufacturer…so, they win on both sides. The longer oil change cycle introduces early product obsolescence, and they reduce their cost for included maintenance.

Product

Is this really so bad or has product improved (both the durability of the motor and parts as well as the lubrication protection of the new synthetic oils)? Yes to both. Car manufacturers have found multiple ways to improve the longevity of parts, even as they try to reduce the mass of the parts for weight and fuel economy gains. And, the new synthetic oils (and the next wave of new synthetic oils will come starting in 2018 +, more on that in another article) have improved their thin wall compressibility, and extended the periods of molecular breakdown. Both of these elements have helped, but not to the point where oil change intervals can grow from the old standard of 3,000 miles to 15,000 miles.

(The picture above is from a new customer who has a current, post 2000 BMW engine, where the owner did not follow the preferred oil change interval…and the results are clear).

NET

We see better product all the time, and continued evolution of all technology advances, but we have not seen the results for synthetic oils and engine design to the point of extending oil changes beyond every 7,500 – 10,000 miles. (Unless you now have an electric car, in which case you get to thing about coolant changes instead of oil changes).

As the old saying goes, you can pay a little now (for the proper protection), or pay a lot more in the future.

 

BRracing 2018 Motorsport Schedule

BRracing 2018 Motorsport Schedule

2017 was a development and platform expanding year for BRracing Motorsports (BRR Motorsports), as our “track customer” base continued to grow in all manners (I know, we just keep saying that), and our customers again traveled all over the scenic United States to sample all sorts of tracks, hotels, airports, restaurants, and other cultural hangouts as part of their track day or racing experience. And we thank all of our customers for such a great year…and for having such a great time together as a group.

Due to our experience base, and service offerings…we had several new customers join BRR Motorsports in 2017, and the scope and type of cars we supported expanded that needed full race or track support (Spec Boxster, Spec911, 997.1 Cup Cars, 997.2 Cup Cars, 991 Cup Cars, F458 Challenge Cars, BMW race cars….extending BRracing beyond just sports cars, we also had a customer acquire the brand new Le Mans Prototype 3 class Ligier LMP3).

BRracing Motorsports offers the following services for track activities: (1) Race Car or Car Storage, (2) Transportation, (3) Track / Crew support, (4) Setup / alignment / corner balancing (5) Tires / Mounting / Balancing, (6) Instruction, (7) Video analysis, (8) Complex data acquisition and analysis.

Here is our current outlook for 2018 – these being the events customers have already targeted to participate in.

February 10-11, 2018 – Thunderhill (Sat / Sun), PCA  (DONE)
March 2-4, 2018 – Circuit of the Americas (COTA) – PCA Club Race / DE (DONE)
March 23-25, 2018 – Thunderhill, PCA – PCA Club Race, DE (DONE, finished P1 in class)
April 4, 2018 – Thunderhill – Droids & Friends, DE Day (DONE)
April 17, 2018 – Thunderhill – Private Test Day (DONE)
April 20 – 22, 2018 – Fontana, Festival of Speed, PCA Club Race / DE (DONE)
May 8, 2018 – Thunderhill – Private Test Day (DONE)
May 18 – 20, 2018 -Buttonwillow – PCA Club Race, DE (DONE)
May 24, 2018 – Thunderhill – Private Test Day (DONE)
Jun 20-21, 2018 – Thunderhill – Private Test Days (DONE)
July 16, 2018 – Laguna – Private Test Day (105db)(DONE)
July 20, 2016 – Laguna – Private Test Day (105db)(DONE)
Jul 27 – 29, 2018 – Laguna, PCA Club Race (DONE)
Aug 4-5, 2018 – Laguna, POC Club Race (DONE)
Sept 5, 2018 – Thunderhill, Private Test Day (DONE)
Sept 6-9, 2018 – Laguna- Pirelli Cup (DONE)
Sept 7-9, 2018 – Thunderhill – PCA Club Race, DE (DONE)
Sept 20, 2018 – Thunderhill – Private Test Day (DROIDS)(DONE)
Sept 26- 30, 2018 – Laguna – Porsche Rennsport Reunion VI (DONE)
Oct 26-28, 2018 – Sonoma, PCA Club Race
Nov 9 – 11, 2018 – Buttonwillow, PCA Club Race, DE

BMW F87 M2 – DINAN’ized

BMW F87 M2 – DINAN’ized

Today’s modern, or new generation manufactured cars are coming more and more optimized.  Therefore, the thinking is there is less that needs to be modified.  You want bigger brakes, more power, different seats, different suspension, additional upgraded body parts…many of the car manufacturers now offer these as options at the time of the order, or they come optioned that way.  Think back to 2010, Porsche issues the new 997.2 GT3…the aftermarket world produced all sorts of features, options, upgrades for this car to make it all that it could be.  Reflect now on the new 991.2 GT3…amazing horsepower, sport seat options, different suspensions, different body elements…all can be ordered w the car.  For the GT3, very little needs to be done.

Same w BMW…back before 2010, DINAN was the upgrade option, and it came with a BMW warranty.  Enter 2010, BMW decided to get into the market itself, and produce M Performance parts that can be ordered with almost all BMW models.  More horsepower, different wheels, body parts, carbon fiber elements, even coil-over suspension…which had been a “no-no” policy before for manufacturers.

So, when BMW brought the new F87 M2 to market, most of the aftermarket suppliers waited to see what this car would be about….at least, most of the aftermarket suppliers.  Not so with DINAN and Vorsteiner…they saw the need, the opportunity, and jumped in with both feet.  Most have herarlded the new M2 as the return of the true “drivers” car in the BMW heritage…so, is there an opportunity here?
You bet!  And that was just the opening we needed to explore….so, here we have  a BMW F87 M2 with the intended objective to add more HorsePower, and to add more body styling elements.

The most trusted name in the market for HP for BMWs has been DINAN, and they have a full palette of options for the M2.   Intake, Intercooler, software / tune, upgraded turbo’s, exhaust…just what you need to optimize horsepower.  Then, if you want the best looking parts to enhance the look of your car, look to Vorsteiner….ART defined.

We will list the DINAN upgrades in a way that a customer could take advantage of them in steps, you don’t have to do it all…you can take it piece, as they not only work individually to add to the puzzle of more power, but they also compliment each other to produce a bigger whole.

SOFTWARE / TUNE

There are two approaches in the market as to how to implement a software upgrade, or a “tune”, to gain more power.  You have the “flash” implementation, and you have the “piggy-back” implementations.  Not always are both available for all cars.  For the M2, at the time of this project, the only implementations were the “piggy-back” options.  This means you have a wiring harness and controller.  The wiring harness is inserted at several of the sensor locations, allowing not only for the upgraded controller to read the values, but also to have a control path to alter the settings if desired (think like the electric water pump, as the engine produces more power, more heat is generated, therefore, the controller / software could instruct the electric water pump to change the rate of flow of the cooling system, improving the cooling affect, or maintaining the overall engine termperature at the higher power output).  The controller intercepts all the signals from the sensors, read thems, and alters the electical values, before passing them onto the actual main engine computer (DME).  In this manner, one of the benefits of a “piggy-back” solution is that it is truly invisible to the DME, and no original DME software is altered or “hacked”.  That is not the case with a flash.

DINAN has vast experience in tuning of engines, and spends tremendous effort in the original testing of the software before it releases it to the market.  They may not produce the most horsepower of any tune on the market, but they will be close, and they produce what we believe to be the most reliable and well tested.  Therefore, we can implemnet the solution with the highest level of confidence.  They can also support “blue tooth” operation of their controller, so they enable the customer to view, alter, see, manage their car fully.  Finally, many of the BMW dealers are DINAN dealers, and will support the DINAN solution, so you can implement the solution without concern about your original manufacture warranty…..WOW!.

INTERCOOLER

The intercooler cools the “charged” air coming out of the turbo’s, and cools that air before it enters the intake system.  By cooling the intake charge, the air is denser, and with denser air, more fuel can be added (maintaining the desired air / fuel ratio).  When you add more, dense air, and more fuel…you get more power.  The intercooler also provides a better cooling solution for around town driving too…as most intercoolers can get “Heat Soak”…especially when driving around town and there is not a high flow of air thru the intercooler.  The BMW intercooler design for the M2 is an “air to air” intercooler design.

So, how do you get the biggest and greatest thermodynamic heat transfer?  You need more cool surface area?  But, the body limits the design options, it has to fit in the existing body, and look nice.  DINAN has found a way to truly optimize the air flow, creating a true “double layer”, or double flow intercooler.  AMAZING design.  We could get into more of the design features, but lets just say it…this is the best intercooler on the market for the M2.  Period.  Here is a first look at the size difference –

To make an intercooler effective, it needs to maximize the cooling effect, while having as little “pressure drop” as possible.  Or, we want as litle “delta P”, while having a large “delta T”. This is straightforward thermodynamics and CFD (computational fluid dynamics).  DINAN has maximized the surface area…more than doubling the area.  But, unlike some IC on the market, they have not just made the IC deeper…..which is not highly effective, and in fact, may be worse than the stock IC.

The uniqueness then in the DINAN design is the true “two flow” appproach. Not only is the front surface area larger, and improved, there is a second rear IC with its own flow.  Again, some other ICs have done dual flows, but they direct the flow from the front IC to the rear IC…which is already hot air, and therefore, does not provide the cooling effectively.

EXHAUST

Everyone enjoys hearing the sound of their car, especially where horsepower has been increased, and especially with cars like the M2.  But, its not just about sound, its also about flow, fitment, style.  In the past, if you considered a DINAN exhaust, then you were thinking this would be more moderate in terms of sound.  Not any more.  This new DINAN exhaust sounds amazing…great tone, not too loud at idle, but comes alive as you roll into the throttle.

When we consider exhausts for customers…the number one priority is the sound.  Sound is very personal, and what sounds good to one person may or may not sound great to the next person. The way many of the exhausts systems are addressing part of this, is with “valvetronic” control. The valve allows the exhaust to be quieter when the valve is closed, and when open, the exhaust bypasses the muffler section, and is more or less a “straight pipe”.  DINAN, in true BMW fashion, works with the stock computer controlled valve systems, and is implemented in their exhaust system in the same manner.  This system flows better, makes more horsepower…but, the sound is GREAT.

For us, the other consideration is look, quality, and fitment.  DINAN has all of these covered.  Made of stainless…the quality is great, and fitment is perfect.  Add the DINAN black tips, and the system looks great as well.

TURBO

Up to this point, that would be the normal upgrade list for most cars.  Intake, exhaust, tune….but, w DINAN and the BMW M2, there is more…a BIG more.  A turbo upgrade option.  Its one thing to alter the software and increase the boost, but you are still limited by what the capacity of the stock turbo is.

DINAN has provided another step in the search for more power, a complete turbo replacement.  The turbo needs to be matched w the DINAN intercooler and software…but this takes the solution to a whole new level.  DINAN provides a complete new turbo, cast, with a larger compressor wheel (~ 30% larger), enabling greater pressure and flow.  They also have other elements upgraded to sustain and support the higher boost pressures, so you can be assured of long term reliability.

Here are the two units, side by side.  Close inspection shows the larger compressor wheel size.

The results are amazing…a total jump of over 100HP over stock (when combined w the software and intercooler).  Another big plus for our customers…this unit is CA CARB (CA Air Resource Board) approved…meaning it is smog legal, and not just for CA, but for all 50 states.

EXTERIOR

REAR DIFFUSER

There are lots of suppliers out there that make aftermarket body elements.  However, there are few that do it really well, and make body parts that not only fit well, but will last, and look great.  VORSTEINER is one of those suppliers, and their parts are recognized more as pieces of art, rather than just replacement parts.  For this project, we wanted to upgrade the rear diffuser and rear trunk lip spoiler.

When upgrading the rear diffuser, not only did we want to add a piece of ART, we wanted carbon fiber, and we wanted function.  The diffuser is not only a nice addition to the rear bumper, but it’s function is to improve the under body air flow, and to produce some rear downforce.  The Vorsteiner piece has been flow tested, CFD designed, and actuates the “venturi” effect at the rear.  Perfect!

To make the project look complete, we wanted to replace the rear upper trunk lip spoiler.  Also with a Vorsteiner version.

If you look closely in the images above, you will also see some other small upgrades / enhancements that we implemented.  Like rear deflector delete.  The normal stock rear bumper has bright red reflectors….we were now replacing these w black units.  These tie in, and tie together the whole rear end.  Style, design, class, completeness.

Now…that’s what we call a PROJECT.

A great platform to start with, in the BMW F87 M2, now completely transformed, upgraded, stylized..and made amazing.

BRracing – creating smiles for miles for our customers.

Audi R8 SC – Supercar territory

Audi R8 V10 SuperCharged – Supercar Territory

We often get asked, “what can you do to add more power to my car?”  In many cases, if the engine is naturally aspirated (read – not turbo charged or super-charged), then not much. The car manufacturers have done an amazing job in all the normal tuning areas to extract as much reliable power as possible.  But, if the engine is turbo-charged or super-charged, then we have all sorts of options.  Cars like the new BMW M3 / M4, or the Porsche turbo based engines, even the MINI Cooper, offer all sorts of options.  But, what if the engine is not turbo-charged or super-charged from the factory?  In some cases, there are still options….that is, to add a turbo or super-charging system.

That was the opportunity presented when one of our customers had a new Audi R8 V10 Plus…and he wanted more power.  What a perfect combination…the new Audi R8, the proven V10 engine, and Audi’s 4-wheel drive to put the power down.  This was the market opportunity that VF Engineering saw, and they have been developing a Super-charger solution for the Audi….now in its third generation form.  On paper, the numbers generated from the VF Engineering kit looked too good to be true….we would hope for about a 20% increase…but w the VF Engr kit, we could see over a 33% increase, and enough horsepower to put the car into “supercar” territory.  Is this just marketing hype, or was this real.  From all our prior experiences w VF Engr, we knew they didn’t stretch the truth, and if they say it will produce over 800HP…..read that right, OVER 800HP, then we knew we were in for something special.

Here is the canvas that we started with…the normal Audi R8 V10 Plus engine bay (w the nice Carbon Fiber interior pieces already installed) –

VF Engr has done such a thorough job, that they have thought thru all the elements needed to produce reliable, trusted power.  No piece is left alone.  But, the good news is that the power can be produced, run, used, without having to also upgrade the bottom end of the engine.

– Intake
– Supercharger
– Integrated intercooler
– Intake manifold
– Fuel injectors
– Fuel injector rail
– Air filters
– Oil cooler
– Auxillary water cooling system
– Additional radiator
– Software tune
– Pulley system, belts, tensioner, mount

The good news is how complete and well designed the kit is. The bad news is that this is no simple install…it takes a lot of time and effort to implement all the pieces and changes. Let’s take a look at the pieces….here is all of it:

Now let’s break it down into the main pieces:

The main performance gain comes from turning the engine from a “naturally aspirated” engine, into a “forced induction” type of engine.  That is accomplished with the addition of a Super-charger kit…there is room in the engine bay for the kit, but the intake base plate needs to change to accommodate the new “twin screw” type Super-charger system.

Here is a close up look at the combined unit of the Super-charger and the intercooler (sitting right below the main twin-screw Super-charger)

The inside of the Super-charger, where you can see the “twin screw” type or version of the Super-charger unit used in the VF Engr kit:

To further enhance performance, VF Engr integrated an intercooler into the intake manifold…just beneath the main Super-charger.  In many SC after market kits…the intercooler is located outside of the intake….realize that each bend in air flow detracts from the benefit of the “compressed” air.  By incorporating the intercooler into the intake, there is a straight path for the air flow, and no loss of power.  The intercooler is a fluid to air type intercooler or heat exchanger.  The lower we can keep the compressed air, the denser the intake, and therefore, the more fuel we need to add to the incoming intake charge, which is where the power comes from…more air, more fuel, more power.

Integrated Intercooler or heat exchanger:

To get this complete Super-charger, intercooler, and the fuel injectors to fit and optimize the flow, a new intake base plate is part of the kit. In addition to just being an adaptor, each of the pieces has been optimized, port size, fuel injector location, and intake port length:

To feed the increased, compressed intake flow, new fuel injector rails (to increase the amount of fuel that can flow to the fuel injectors), and the injectors need to be upgraded.

With the production of more power…comes the one piece that also needs to be dealt with….HEAT. The VF Engr kit deals with all elements of this….the intercooler liquid to air system (which needs it’s own fluid, resv, radiator, and pump), and an additional oil cooler.

Due to the change in intake system, and the routing of the air from the stock intake / air filter system, to the new intake / Super-charger manifold, VF Engr designed the perfect intake manifold to feed the Super-charger…notice the clean lines, lack of bends, and ported internals.  Optimized air flow.

To further “mate” this system to the car, BRracing custom painted the interior elements of the VF Engr logo to match the body color of the car, making the system look like a true OEM solution

The Audi R8 V10 Plus is a tightly integrated solution, and finding room for all the additional pieces was no small feat.  Here is one of the additional radiators being installed, in front of the left side core radiator.  This sits right behind the main side intake duct, so airflow to the system is optimized, and some trimming of the intake air duct is required, along w some new brackets and fitment elements for the existing radiators, along with the new plumbing. (Note – the pic below is during the test fitment of the new, dual layer radiator system).

Here is the completed, dual radiator install and new plumbing:

To provide the cooling for the intercooler…you need the radiator, new plumbing, an auxillary water pump, and a cooling system expansion tank.  BRracing further enhanced the VF Engr kit in the location, routing, hose sizing, and serviceability of the system as part of the install.

The end result is a complete kit…not missing any element, providing robust amounts of HP and torque, and looking to the world like this is the way it should have come from the factory (BRracing powder coated the interior engine bay brace to match the body color to further enhance the integrated and OEM look).

The result is nothing short of STUNNING…AMAZING amounts of power.  Linear, pulls like you wouldn’t believe, pushes you back into the seat, and you best hang on….and watch the speedo, as we hit unimageable speeds faster than you can blink.

If you are going to add this much power…..and thank goodness for the 4-wheel drive to put this power down…you need big rubber.
Paul decided to upgrade his wheels and tires as well…going w the HRE RS205M forged wheels, shod w Michelin tires.

WOW…never have we been so amazed at the results.  You hope for more…but you don’t imagine that you get WOW!  If you see this car….or you see a red BLUR pass you by….now you know why.

BRracing – building cars others just dream about

 

New PCA DE Rule Coming

The number one priority of PCA’s HPDE (High Performance Driving Experience) Program is track safety. A core belief in the DE program is that a person can purchase a stock Porsche and take it to the track for an HPDE weekend, after an appropriate tech inspection of course.

Some people choose to modify their cars to increase performance and others to increase safety. A popular modification made to track cars is the addition of a multi-point harness system. Starting January 1, 2019, the PCA DE Minimum Standards will be expanded to state that if a driver uses a harness system, he or she will ALSO be required to utilize a head and neck restraint system, commonly referred to as a HANS device.

A head and neck restraint device is an integral part of the harness system. Because the rule of equal restraint always applies, if a driver uses a harness system there must also be a harness system available and used by the passenger. Thus, both the driver and passenger will be required to use a HANS device. We highly encourage all DE participants to not wait until 2019 to comply with this new minimum standard. Head and neck restraint system devices are now more affordable and easily purchased online.

The DE Committee’s decision was made over the course of two years after careful review of options, conversations with DE participants and discussion of a variety of perspectives. Please pass on this information to your DE drivers and instructors as soon as possible to avoid any confusion.

How To Manage Your Car During A Track Day

How To Manage Your Car During A Track Day

We have likely had more discussions on how to manage your car at a track day than any other track day discussion.  There is a lot that is just not known by the first time or occasional track day participant. Managing these elements will ensure a safer track day, and extend the life of your tires, car.

The items are fairly simple…but do take attention and some work.  You need to ensure that your car has been prepped for your first track day (see our other blog article), and that you bring the basic tools (see our other blog article).

TIRES

This is probably the most mis-understood element.  There are two cases here, the participant who drove their car to the track (and intends on driving it home as well), and the one who has trailered their car to / from the event.  We will focus most of our discussion on the participant who drives to / from the event, but the other elements of this discussion will apply to the participant who trailers their car as well.

The main topic here is TIRE PRESSURES.  What tire pressures should be run, when, and how to manage them.  Almost all cars for the North American market have a sticker on the drivers inner door jam that specify what tire pressures are best for that car.  Those pressures are for street, freeway driving, and are usually measured or defined for “COLD” tire temperatures.  You need to know that, and will need to use it when you are preparing to travel home after the event, or even after the day if you are doing multiple day events.  BUT, that pressure is NOT to be used on the track.  (We can have a separate discussion on how those pressures on the door jam sticker are determined so that you can understand those as well, but that is a separate discussion).  Again, the street pressures are NOT the target pressures, neither cold or hot…ignore them.  For MOST DOT approved tires (tires like Michelin SuperSport, Michelin Pilot Sport 4S, Bridgestone S04, Bridgestone RE71R, Nitto NT01, Toyo R888, Toyo R1R, Hankook RS3, Continental ExtremeContact Sport, Pirelli PZero, and more, the target HOT tire pressure is 35 – 36psi.  Remember that, record it somewhere, memorize, subscribe to it!  However, that does not mean that is where we set the tires for the beginning of your session….that is where we want the tire to end up at the end of the session.

Now, there are several factors that need to be considered to determine the best starting tire pressure.  Weather, temperature, humidity, the track being driven, the group you are running with, how long the session will be, and finally, how aggressive you will be during your session.  For first time participants, they likely have a different first session experience than all others.  They may even have an instructor drive their car for the first two or three laps, then they may come in, switch seats, and go back out.

Tire pressures will grow significantly during a session.  The key parameters (friction, slip, weather or ambient temperature, and  humidity) will have a dramatic impact on how much your tire pressures change. You also need to be aware of what your tire is mainly filled with (ambient air, or Nitrogen).  Even if filled w Nitrogen, and purged of almost all humidity, the tire pressures will grow during a track session, just not as much as a tire mainly filled with air.

So, how much will a tire pressure GROW during a session or for the day?  Let’s take a likely scenario, and run through a couple of examples.  CASE “A” is a customer with a 2005 BMW E46 M3.  Case “B” is a customer with a 2011 Porsche Cayman S.  These are both likely or possible first time track cars.  The info here will apply to any car, you just need to factor in the already mentioned variables.

CASE A (BMW E46 M3)
– Time of day for first session = 8:15am
– Track = Thunderhill East course
– Weather temperature = 55 degrees F
– Humidity = 30%
– Tires = Michelin SuperSport
– True first time track session / experience
– Organization = Hooked On Driving (HOD)

Session 1 tire pressures
– Before session, set tire pressures to about 32-33 psi
– At the end of the session, after you roll off the track, and park at your spot, immediately check your tire pressures…if we guessed our starting point right, we should end up at about 35-36psi…we’ll call this our HOT pressure.

Session 2 tire pressures
If we guessed right for Session 1, then, we need to drop our tire pressures by about 1 psi BEFORE we go out for our second session.  For education purposes, it would be good to document your tire pressure management for the day (Session #, cold / starting pressure, hot / finishing  pressures, adjustment made)
If we guessed right for Session 1, and made the adjustment DOWN by 1 psi before the start of session 2, then, at the end of session 2, we should come in at the end of your session, measure HOT tire pressures, and they should be around 35-36psi again.  That is where we want to end up at the end of each session.  If we did end up at 35 psi at the end of session 2, then we will want to want to drop another 1 psi before the start of session 3.  Each session, the temperature of the day is likely rising, your comfort with the track grows, and your speed will likely increase.  All of these combine to increase the friction / heat generated in the tire, and as a result, the tire pressures will continue to grow.
Now, don’t pay a lot of attention to the tire as it cools between sessions…other than to educate yourself on what is going on.
So…what happens if the numbers don’t match to the target ending pressures?  Then, you make an adjustment…it’s like a simple math equation or “if / then” decision matrix statement.
Let’s say you are comfortable w the track, you came up to speed more quickly in Session 2 than we had estimated, and the temperature of the day also got hotter faster than we had estimated.  Then, at the end of session 2, our HOT tire pressures could have been 39 psi instead of the target 35-36psi.  If we wanted to be at 35psi HOT at the end of the session, and we were at 39psi, and we were going to drop the tire pressure by 1 psi, then we need to alter our adjustment, and relieve the tire pressure by 5 psi prior to the start of the next session.

Session 3 tire pressures
Assuming that we stay w the facts and variables of our first session, we should have ended Session 2 at 25-36psi, and we would need to adjust down yet again our tire pressures by another 1 psi.  If we end up above or below the HOT target pressures at the end of the session, then we would factor that into our adjustment equation.

Session 4 tire pressures
The same will hold true for session 4.  At the end of session 3, we need to adjust down again our tire pressures by 1 psi.

Session 5 tire pressures
Normally, for session 5, we will NOT need to make any adjustments, as the tires, the weather, your level of driving, the track, the humidity, do not change, and we won’t need to make any change for the last session of the day, or if you have even more sessions, it is likely you will be fine…..but, measure to verify no matter what.

CASE B (Porsche Cayman S, 987, 2011)
– Time of day for first session = 8:15am
– Track = Thunderhill East course
– Weather temperature = 55 degrees F
– Humidity = 30%
– Tires = Michelin Pilot 4S
– 1st track event of the year, has done over 20 track days before
– Organization = Hooked On Driving (HOD)
– Run Group B (running without an instructor)

The main facts that have changed are the experience of the driver, and the speed of the car.

Session 1 tire pressures
– Before session, set tire pressures to about 29 psi
– At the end of the session, after you roll off the track, and park at your spot, immediately check your tire pressures…if we guessed our starting point right, we should end up at about 35-36psi…we’ll call this our HOT pressure.

Session 2 tire pressures
If we guessed right for Session 1, then, we need to drop our tire pressures by about 2 psi BEFORE we go out for our second session.  If we guessed right for Session 1, and made the adjustment DOWN by 2 psi before the start of session 2, then, at the end of session 2, we should come in at the end of your session, measure HOT tire pressures, and they should be around 35-36psi again.  That is where we want to end up at the end of each session.  If we did end up at 35 psi at the end of session 2, then we will want to want to drop another 1 1/2 psi before the start of session 3.  Each session, the temperature of the day is likely rising, your comfort with the track grows, and your speed will likely increase.  All of these combine to increase the friction / heat generated in the tire, and as a result, the tire pressures will continue to grow. We are adjusting more in Case B than in Case A mainly due to the speed of the car, and the aggressiveness of the driver.

So…what happens if the numbers don’t match to the target ending pressures?  Then, you make an adjustment just like in Case A…it’s like a simple math equation or “if / then” decision matrix statement.
Let’s say you are comfortable w the track, you came up to speed more quickly in Session 2 than we had estimated, and the temperature of the day also got hotter faster than we had estimated.  Then, at the end of session 2, our HOT tire pressures could have been 39 psi instead of the target 35-36psi.  If we wanted to be at 35psi HOT at the end of the session, and we were at 39psi, and we were going to drop the tire pressure by 1 1/2 psi, then we need to alter our adjustment, and relieve the tire pressure by 5 1/2 psi prior to the start of the next session.

Session 3 tire pressures
Assuming that we stay w the facts and variables of our first session, we should have ended Session 2 at 25-36psi, and we would need to adjust down yet again our tire pressures by another 1 psi.  If we end up above or below the HOT target pressures at the end of the session, then we would factor that into our adjustment equation.

Session 4 tire pressures
The same will hold true for session 4.  At the end of session 3, we need to adjust down again our tire pressures by just 1/2 psi.  Due to the agressiveness of the driver, and the speed of the laps, the tires will have normalized more quickly.

Session 5 tire pressures
Normally, for session 5, we will NOT need to make any adjustments, as the tires, the weather, your level of driving, the track, the humidity, do not change, and we won’t need to make any change for the last session of the day, or if you have even more sessions, it is likely you will be fine…..but, measure to verify no matter what.

Going Home or to the Hotel For the Night (either Case A or Case B)
Look back on what we have done….we started the tire pressures very low at the start of the day, and continued to relieve pressures…if we do the math, the effective COLD pressures could now be in the 23-25psi range…no where near where the door jam recommends.  Therefore, we need to INFLATE the tires to get them to near the door jam pressures.

One other KEY point…in all our references for track pressure, we are targeting the SAME tire pressures for all four tires, front and rear (or symmetrical).  It is very likely that your car does NOT specify that the front and rear tire pressures be the same for street driving.  That is correct….we want our track HOT pressures to be around 35-36psi HOT for all four tires, front and rear, but for street driving, we want our front and rear tire pressures to match those COLD tire pressures the manufacturer has defined and posted on the door jam.

FUEL
Just a couple of points on fuel.  This is guidance for a new track user…not a long time, aggressive or time trialer. We would suggest that you never let your fuel load get before 1/4 tank.  If it looks like you are going to start the session at 1/4 tank, then we would suggest that you add fuel before your session.

We have seen cases, under “G-loading” in the corners, where street cars can starve when the fuel load is at 1/4 tank or less.  Most people will consume about 3-5 gallons a session (assuming a normal 20-25 minute session).

At the same time, we would suggest running your fuel load at about the 3/4 full level.  We do not know of any issue of running the tank full, but if your car is older, and the fuel caps not quite as strong, you can get some leakage or fuel bypass.

Check your fuel load right after each session….not right before the start of your session.

WHEELS / Lug Bolts / Center Locks
Two items here….too many users don’t check their wheel lug bolts / wheel nuts / wheel studs / center lock nuts at all.  WRONG!  You need to check them before every session.

However, we have also seen many, almost everyone, who does follow the above rule, abuse the car or equipment…as most do not understand the basic principal of “torquing” a fastener, whatever type it is.

Let’s say you were going to check your wheel lug bolts before the start of the day and then after every session.  You DO NOT go an just put the torque wrench on the lug bolt, and test it. WRONG, WRONG, WRONG…if you do that, in a couple of track days, you will SHEAR the lug bolts, and induce a severe safety issue.  You also do NOT want to test the torque right after your car has come off the track….the wheels, brakes, etc are very hot, and you can over torque a fastener when it is hot. Wait till the car and systems have cooled, or right before the start of your next session. To check the wheel lug torque (and first, you must know what the proper wheel lug bolt, wheel nut /stud, or center lock nut torque value is), you first LOOSEN the wheel fastener slightly, and then proceed to torque the fastener to the proper value.

If you have a car with any version of “center lock” wheels…check with your manufacturer, and get their procedure for how this is to be performed (when Porsche came out w their center lock hubs / wheels / nuts on the 997.2 911 GT3 or GT3RS, they wrote a 5 page article on how to torque the center locks…and we have watched almost ALL Porsche owners not follow the proper procedure….and we have seen where a wheel hub on multiple Porsche GT3’s / GT3RS’s has been sheared off during a track session…not what you want to happen to your car).  Be aware of the proper tools needed to do this, and the torque values.

Realize wheel STUDS / nuts have different torque values than lug bolts when installed on the same car.  The defined torque is determined by the metal type, strength, and size.

Yourself
The  simple rule here is do not ignore the driver…keep yourself hydrated, visit the bathroom often, wear the proper clothes, and bring sunscreen.

Hope these thoughts have helped prepare you for your events, whether you are a first time participant or an aged track junkie.  It should be fun, safe, and exhilarating.

Let us know if you have any questions about any of our info or articles.

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