BR Racing Blog

PCA Club Race & DE Event – Sept 7-9, 2018

Final time at Thunderhill Raceway in 2018. We have DE and Club Racing once more. We will be running the traditional 3-mile east course on Saturday and Sunday, and the PCA Diablo region will be running the complete 5-mile course on Friday.

Registration details will be posted a few weeks before the event. For DE registration visit MotorsportReg. For club racing registration, visit the PCA registration website.
One Day Driving options available!

Need help or have questions?
Registration questions:
Student or Instructor questions:
Club Race questions:
GGR DE/TT Chair:
Or, visit the GGR Online Community for some on-line bench racing:

BRracing will be there with both a large group of DE customers along with a large group of race customers…come join us.  Great event, great people, great FUN.

Oil Changes – Does Frequency Make a Difference?

Oil Changes – Does Frequency Make a Difference?

There seems to be a lot of contradictory information on oil changes.

(The picture above was from a BRracing customer who did not change his own regularly)

Most manufacturers are starting to promote longer oil change intervals. Why? Has some breakthrough been made that makes oil last longer, and the wear on the motor less? Or is this a game being played out in the market, to gain market share?

The answer is all the above. So, what should we know, or how should we manage the oil changes on our cars?


In the ever competitive world of car sales, each manufacturer is trying to work all the little details to gain market share. Enter BMW in the early 2000’s, and their introduction of the “included maintenance” as part of the car purchase. Why did they do this? Research had shown that potential BMW customers were concerned that the ongoing maintenance costs of a BMW vs other cars was high. So, if they now included the maintenance, that removed the issue from the buyer. Now BMW was seen as less expensive to maintain than other cars. But, nothing changed on the car itself. BMW needed to keep the cost to themselves and the dealers down, so, they magically changed the service interval from every 7,500 miles to every 15,000 miles. As this market strategy has worked in BMWs favor, other car manufacturers are adopting some of the same elements. We see other manufacturers adopting the “included maintenance” solution, and at the same time, the service interval change (getting higher). Is this so bad?

Not for the car manufacturers. The downside to less frequent oil changes is wear on the motor and other lubricated parts. Who loses in this equation? The owner of the car once it reaches 100k miles, as the incremental additional wear on the motor will start to produce unwanted or unexpected results…..things will wear out sooner, or things will break sooner.

Evidence of this is now starting to become known. GM released a letter to owners of cars between the years of 2010 – 2012, to notify them that they may need to do oil changes more frequently than their computer or service display shows. Why? Because GM is starting to have to deal w more warranty claims on broken motors. They are offering to reprogram the software on the car to show the need for more frequent oil changes than before, to prevent these downside affects of extending the oil change interval.

BMW & MINI changed their direction in 2013.  The cars (BMW & MINI) built from 2000 – 2015 have a computer based service reminder, and that reminder has an oil change interval of 15k miles.  Due to issues seen, BMW & MINI changed this requirement back to once a year, or every 7,500 – 10k miles, but did NOT update the software in the car to reset this service reminder.  They left the car owner to understand this change on their own. Starting in 2017, BMW & MINI cars computer service reminders for oil changes now state every 10k miles, OR, it can be changed by the dealer or independent service center (like BRracing) to the customers desire, as long as it is lower than 10k miles.

Now, we as independent shop service centers are seeing the evidence as well. We (BRR) are now dealing w replacement motors, highly worn parts on a weekly basis. The fundamental shift in oil change intervals has taken about 8 years to work its way into the market, but the results are clear. Cars and motors are not lasting as long, and not like before, where if you took good care of the motor, it could last well over 300k miles. Now motors and other parts are requiring replacement in the 120k – 200k range. Again, the car manufacturers don’t really care, as the owners of the cars at that age are not the next new car customer for the car manufacturer…so, they win on both sides. The longer oil change cycle introduces early product obsolescence, and they reduce their cost for included maintenance.


Is this really so bad or has product improved (both the durability of the motor and parts as well as the lubrication protection of the new synthetic oils)? Yes to both. Car manufacturers have found multiple ways to improve the longevity of parts, even as they try to reduce the mass of the parts for weight and fuel economy gains. And, the new synthetic oils (and the next wave of new synthetic oils will come starting in 2018 +, more on that in another article) have improved their thin wall compressibility, and extended the periods of molecular breakdown. Both of these elements have helped, but not to the point where oil change intervals can grow from the old standard of 3,000 miles to 15,000 miles.

(The picture above is from a new customer who has a current, post 2000 BMW engine, where the owner did not follow the preferred oil change interval…and the results are clear).


We see better product all the time, and continued evolution of all technology advances, but we have not seen the results for synthetic oils and engine design to the point of extending oil changes beyond every 7,500 – 10,000 miles. (Unless you now have an electric car, in which case you get to thing about coolant changes instead of oil changes).

As the old saying goes, you can pay a little now (for the proper protection), or pay a lot more in the future.


BRracing 2018 Motorsport Schedule

BRracing 2018 Motorsport Schedule

2017 was a development and platform expanding year for BRracing Motorsports (BRR Motorsports), as our “track customer” base continued to grow in all manners (I know, we just keep saying that), and our customers again traveled all over the scenic United States to sample all sorts of tracks, hotels, airports, restaurants, and other cultural hangouts as part of their track day or racing experience. And we thank all of our customers for such a great year…and for having such a great time together as a group.

Due to our experience base, and service offerings…we had several new customers join BRR Motorsports in 2017, and the scope and type of cars we supported expanded that needed full race or track support (Spec Boxster, Spec911, 997.1 Cup Cars, 997.2 Cup Cars, 991 Cup Cars, F458 Challenge Cars, BMW race cars….extending BRracing beyond just sports cars, we also had a customer acquire the brand new Le Mans Prototype 3 class Ligier LMP3).

BRracing Motorsports offers the following services for track activities: (1) Race Car or Car Storage, (2) Transportation, (3) Track / Crew support, (4) Setup / alignment / corner balancing (5) Tires / Mounting / Balancing, (6) Instruction, (7) Video analysis, (8) Complex data acquisition and analysis.

Here is our current outlook for 2018 – these being the events customers have already targeted to participate in.

February 10-11, 2018 – Thunderhill (Sat / Sun), PCA  (DONE)
March 2-4, 2018 – Circuit of the Americas (COTA) – PCA Club Race / DE (DONE)
March 23-25, 2018 – Thunderhill, PCA – PCA Club Race, DE (DONE, finished P1 in class)
April 4, 2018 – Thunderhill – Droids & Friends, DE Day (DONE)
April 17, 2018 – Thunderhill – Private Test Day (DONE)
April 20 – 22, 2018 – Fontana, Festival of Speed, PCA Club Race / DE (DONE)
May 8, 2018 – Thunderhill – Private Test Day (DONE)
May 18 – 20, 2018 -Buttonwillow – PCA Club Race, DE (DONE)
May 24, 2018 – Thunderhill – Private Test Day (DONE)
Jun 20-21, 2018 – Thunderhill – Private Test Days (DONE)
July 16, 2018 – Laguna – Private Test Day (105db)(DONE)
July 20, 2016 – Laguna – Private Test Day (105db)(DONE)
Jul 27 – 29, 2018 – Laguna, PCA Club Race (DONE)
Aug 4-5, 2018 – Laguna, POC Club Race (DONE)
Sept 5, 2018 – Thunderhill, Private Test Day (DONE)
Sept 6-9, 2018 – Laguna- Pirelli Cup (DONE)
Sept 7-9, 2018 – Thunderhill – PCA Club Race, DE (DONE)
Sept 20, 2018 – Thunderhill – Private Test Day (DROIDS)(DONE)
Sept 26- 30, 2018 – Laguna – Porsche Rennsport Reunion VI (DONE)
Oct 26-28, 2018 – Sonoma, PCA Club Race
Nov 9 – 11, 2018 – Buttonwillow, PCA Club Race, DE

BMW F87 M2 – DINAN’ized

BMW F87 M2 – DINAN’ized

Today’s modern, or new generation manufactured cars are coming more and more optimized.  Therefore, the thinking is there is less that needs to be modified.  You want bigger brakes, more power, different seats, different suspension, additional upgraded body parts…many of the car manufacturers now offer these as options at the time of the order, or they come optioned that way.  Think back to 2010, Porsche issues the new 997.2 GT3…the aftermarket world produced all sorts of features, options, upgrades for this car to make it all that it could be.  Reflect now on the new 991.2 GT3…amazing horsepower, sport seat options, different suspensions, different body elements…all can be ordered w the car.  For the GT3, very little needs to be done.

Same w BMW…back before 2010, DINAN was the upgrade option, and it came with a BMW warranty.  Enter 2010, BMW decided to get into the market itself, and produce M Performance parts that can be ordered with almost all BMW models.  More horsepower, different wheels, body parts, carbon fiber elements, even coil-over suspension…which had been a “no-no” policy before for manufacturers.

So, when BMW brought the new F87 M2 to market, most of the aftermarket suppliers waited to see what this car would be about….at least, most of the aftermarket suppliers.  Not so with DINAN and Vorsteiner…they saw the need, the opportunity, and jumped in with both feet.  Most have herarlded the new M2 as the return of the true “drivers” car in the BMW heritage…so, is there an opportunity here?
You bet!  And that was just the opening we needed to explore….so, here we have  a BMW F87 M2 with the intended objective to add more HorsePower, and to add more body styling elements.

The most trusted name in the market for HP for BMWs has been DINAN, and they have a full palette of options for the M2.   Intake, Intercooler, software / tune, upgraded turbo’s, exhaust…just what you need to optimize horsepower.  Then, if you want the best looking parts to enhance the look of your car, look to Vorsteiner….ART defined.

We will list the DINAN upgrades in a way that a customer could take advantage of them in steps, you don’t have to do it all…you can take it piece, as they not only work individually to add to the puzzle of more power, but they also compliment each other to produce a bigger whole.


There are two approaches in the market as to how to implement a software upgrade, or a “tune”, to gain more power.  You have the “flash” implementation, and you have the “piggy-back” implementations.  Not always are both available for all cars.  For the M2, at the time of this project, the only implementations were the “piggy-back” options.  This means you have a wiring harness and controller.  The wiring harness is inserted at several of the sensor locations, allowing not only for the upgraded controller to read the values, but also to have a control path to alter the settings if desired (think like the electric water pump, as the engine produces more power, more heat is generated, therefore, the controller / software could instruct the electric water pump to change the rate of flow of the cooling system, improving the cooling affect, or maintaining the overall engine termperature at the higher power output).  The controller intercepts all the signals from the sensors, read thems, and alters the electical values, before passing them onto the actual main engine computer (DME).  In this manner, one of the benefits of a “piggy-back” solution is that it is truly invisible to the DME, and no original DME software is altered or “hacked”.  That is not the case with a flash.

DINAN has vast experience in tuning of engines, and spends tremendous effort in the original testing of the software before it releases it to the market.  They may not produce the most horsepower of any tune on the market, but they will be close, and they produce what we believe to be the most reliable and well tested.  Therefore, we can implemnet the solution with the highest level of confidence.  They can also support “blue tooth” operation of their controller, so they enable the customer to view, alter, see, manage their car fully.  Finally, many of the BMW dealers are DINAN dealers, and will support the DINAN solution, so you can implement the solution without concern about your original manufacture warranty…..WOW!.


The intercooler cools the “charged” air coming out of the turbo’s, and cools that air before it enters the intake system.  By cooling the intake charge, the air is denser, and with denser air, more fuel can be added (maintaining the desired air / fuel ratio).  When you add more, dense air, and more fuel…you get more power.  The intercooler also provides a better cooling solution for around town driving too…as most intercoolers can get “Heat Soak”…especially when driving around town and there is not a high flow of air thru the intercooler.  The BMW intercooler design for the M2 is an “air to air” intercooler design.

So, how do you get the biggest and greatest thermodynamic heat transfer?  You need more cool surface area?  But, the body limits the design options, it has to fit in the existing body, and look nice.  DINAN has found a way to truly optimize the air flow, creating a true “double layer”, or double flow intercooler.  AMAZING design.  We could get into more of the design features, but lets just say it…this is the best intercooler on the market for the M2.  Period.  Here is a first look at the size difference –

To make an intercooler effective, it needs to maximize the cooling effect, while having as little “pressure drop” as possible.  Or, we want as litle “delta P”, while having a large “delta T”. This is straightforward thermodynamics and CFD (computational fluid dynamics).  DINAN has maximized the surface area…more than doubling the area.  But, unlike some IC on the market, they have not just made the IC deeper…..which is not highly effective, and in fact, may be worse than the stock IC.

The uniqueness then in the DINAN design is the true “two flow” appproach. Not only is the front surface area larger, and improved, there is a second rear IC with its own flow.  Again, some other ICs have done dual flows, but they direct the flow from the front IC to the rear IC…which is already hot air, and therefore, does not provide the cooling effectively.


Everyone enjoys hearing the sound of their car, especially where horsepower has been increased, and especially with cars like the M2.  But, its not just about sound, its also about flow, fitment, style.  In the past, if you considered a DINAN exhaust, then you were thinking this would be more moderate in terms of sound.  Not any more.  This new DINAN exhaust sounds amazing…great tone, not too loud at idle, but comes alive as you roll into the throttle.

When we consider exhausts for customers…the number one priority is the sound.  Sound is very personal, and what sounds good to one person may or may not sound great to the next person. The way many of the exhausts systems are addressing part of this, is with “valvetronic” control. The valve allows the exhaust to be quieter when the valve is closed, and when open, the exhaust bypasses the muffler section, and is more or less a “straight pipe”.  DINAN, in true BMW fashion, works with the stock computer controlled valve systems, and is implemented in their exhaust system in the same manner.  This system flows better, makes more horsepower…but, the sound is GREAT.

For us, the other consideration is look, quality, and fitment.  DINAN has all of these covered.  Made of stainless…the quality is great, and fitment is perfect.  Add the DINAN black tips, and the system looks great as well.


Up to this point, that would be the normal upgrade list for most cars.  Intake, exhaust, tune….but, w DINAN and the BMW M2, there is more…a BIG more.  A turbo upgrade option.  Its one thing to alter the software and increase the boost, but you are still limited by what the capacity of the stock turbo is.

DINAN has provided another step in the search for more power, a complete turbo replacement.  The turbo needs to be matched w the DINAN intercooler and software…but this takes the solution to a whole new level.  DINAN provides a complete new turbo, cast, with a larger compressor wheel (~ 30% larger), enabling greater pressure and flow.  They also have other elements upgraded to sustain and support the higher boost pressures, so you can be assured of long term reliability.

Here are the two units, side by side.  Close inspection shows the larger compressor wheel size.

The results are amazing…a total jump of over 100HP over stock (when combined w the software and intercooler).  Another big plus for our customers…this unit is CA CARB (CA Air Resource Board) approved…meaning it is smog legal, and not just for CA, but for all 50 states.



There are lots of suppliers out there that make aftermarket body elements.  However, there are few that do it really well, and make body parts that not only fit well, but will last, and look great.  VORSTEINER is one of those suppliers, and their parts are recognized more as pieces of art, rather than just replacement parts.  For this project, we wanted to upgrade the rear diffuser and rear trunk lip spoiler.

When upgrading the rear diffuser, not only did we want to add a piece of ART, we wanted carbon fiber, and we wanted function.  The diffuser is not only a nice addition to the rear bumper, but it’s function is to improve the under body air flow, and to produce some rear downforce.  The Vorsteiner piece has been flow tested, CFD designed, and actuates the “venturi” effect at the rear.  Perfect!

To make the project look complete, we wanted to replace the rear upper trunk lip spoiler.  Also with a Vorsteiner version.

If you look closely in the images above, you will also see some other small upgrades / enhancements that we implemented.  Like rear deflector delete.  The normal stock rear bumper has bright red reflectors….we were now replacing these w black units.  These tie in, and tie together the whole rear end.  Style, design, class, completeness.

Now…that’s what we call a PROJECT.

A great platform to start with, in the BMW F87 M2, now completely transformed, upgraded, stylized..and made amazing.

BRracing – creating smiles for miles for our customers.

Audi R8 SC – Supercar territory

Audi R8 V10 SuperCharged – Supercar Territory

We often get asked, “what can you do to add more power to my car?”  In many cases, if the engine is naturally aspirated (read – not turbo charged or super-charged), then not much. The car manufacturers have done an amazing job in all the normal tuning areas to extract as much reliable power as possible.  But, if the engine is turbo-charged or super-charged, then we have all sorts of options.  Cars like the new BMW M3 / M4, or the Porsche turbo based engines, even the MINI Cooper, offer all sorts of options.  But, what if the engine is not turbo-charged or super-charged from the factory?  In some cases, there are still options….that is, to add a turbo or super-charging system.

That was the opportunity presented when one of our customers had a new Audi R8 V10 Plus…and he wanted more power.  What a perfect combination…the new Audi R8, the proven V10 engine, and Audi’s 4-wheel drive to put the power down.  This was the market opportunity that VF Engineering saw, and they have been developing a Super-charger solution for the Audi….now in its third generation form.  On paper, the numbers generated from the VF Engineering kit looked too good to be true….we would hope for about a 20% increase…but w the VF Engr kit, we could see over a 33% increase, and enough horsepower to put the car into “supercar” territory.  Is this just marketing hype, or was this real.  From all our prior experiences w VF Engr, we knew they didn’t stretch the truth, and if they say it will produce over 800HP… that right, OVER 800HP, then we knew we were in for something special.

Here is the canvas that we started with…the normal Audi R8 V10 Plus engine bay (w the nice Carbon Fiber interior pieces already installed) –

VF Engr has done such a thorough job, that they have thought thru all the elements needed to produce reliable, trusted power.  No piece is left alone.  But, the good news is that the power can be produced, run, used, without having to also upgrade the bottom end of the engine.

– Intake
– Supercharger
– Integrated intercooler
– Intake manifold
– Fuel injectors
– Fuel injector rail
– Air filters
– Oil cooler
– Auxillary water cooling system
– Additional radiator
– Software tune
– Pulley system, belts, tensioner, mount

The good news is how complete and well designed the kit is. The bad news is that this is no simple install…it takes a lot of time and effort to implement all the pieces and changes. Let’s take a look at the pieces….here is all of it:

Now let’s break it down into the main pieces:

The main performance gain comes from turning the engine from a “naturally aspirated” engine, into a “forced induction” type of engine.  That is accomplished with the addition of a Super-charger kit…there is room in the engine bay for the kit, but the intake base plate needs to change to accommodate the new “twin screw” type Super-charger system.

Here is a close up look at the combined unit of the Super-charger and the intercooler (sitting right below the main twin-screw Super-charger)

The inside of the Super-charger, where you can see the “twin screw” type or version of the Super-charger unit used in the VF Engr kit:

To further enhance performance, VF Engr integrated an intercooler into the intake manifold…just beneath the main Super-charger.  In many SC after market kits…the intercooler is located outside of the intake….realize that each bend in air flow detracts from the benefit of the “compressed” air.  By incorporating the intercooler into the intake, there is a straight path for the air flow, and no loss of power.  The intercooler is a fluid to air type intercooler or heat exchanger.  The lower we can keep the compressed air, the denser the intake, and therefore, the more fuel we need to add to the incoming intake charge, which is where the power comes from…more air, more fuel, more power.

Integrated Intercooler or heat exchanger:

To get this complete Super-charger, intercooler, and the fuel injectors to fit and optimize the flow, a new intake base plate is part of the kit. In addition to just being an adaptor, each of the pieces has been optimized, port size, fuel injector location, and intake port length:

To feed the increased, compressed intake flow, new fuel injector rails (to increase the amount of fuel that can flow to the fuel injectors), and the injectors need to be upgraded.

With the production of more power…comes the one piece that also needs to be dealt with….HEAT. The VF Engr kit deals with all elements of this….the intercooler liquid to air system (which needs it’s own fluid, resv, radiator, and pump), and an additional oil cooler.

Due to the change in intake system, and the routing of the air from the stock intake / air filter system, to the new intake / Super-charger manifold, VF Engr designed the perfect intake manifold to feed the Super-charger…notice the clean lines, lack of bends, and ported internals.  Optimized air flow.

To further “mate” this system to the car, BRracing custom painted the interior elements of the VF Engr logo to match the body color of the car, making the system look like a true OEM solution

The Audi R8 V10 Plus is a tightly integrated solution, and finding room for all the additional pieces was no small feat.  Here is one of the additional radiators being installed, in front of the left side core radiator.  This sits right behind the main side intake duct, so airflow to the system is optimized, and some trimming of the intake air duct is required, along w some new brackets and fitment elements for the existing radiators, along with the new plumbing. (Note – the pic below is during the test fitment of the new, dual layer radiator system).

Here is the completed, dual radiator install and new plumbing:

To provide the cooling for the intercooler…you need the radiator, new plumbing, an auxillary water pump, and a cooling system expansion tank.  BRracing further enhanced the VF Engr kit in the location, routing, hose sizing, and serviceability of the system as part of the install.

The end result is a complete kit…not missing any element, providing robust amounts of HP and torque, and looking to the world like this is the way it should have come from the factory (BRracing powder coated the interior engine bay brace to match the body color to further enhance the integrated and OEM look).

The result is nothing short of STUNNING…AMAZING amounts of power.  Linear, pulls like you wouldn’t believe, pushes you back into the seat, and you best hang on….and watch the speedo, as we hit unimageable speeds faster than you can blink.

If you are going to add this much power…..and thank goodness for the 4-wheel drive to put this power down…you need big rubber.
Paul decided to upgrade his wheels and tires as well…going w the HRE RS205M forged wheels, shod w Michelin tires.

WOW…never have we been so amazed at the results.  You hope for more…but you don’t imagine that you get WOW!  If you see this car….or you see a red BLUR pass you by….now you know why.

BRracing – building cars others just dream about


New PCA DE Rule Coming

The number one priority of PCA’s HPDE (High Performance Driving Experience) Program is track safety. A core belief in the DE program is that a person can purchase a stock Porsche and take it to the track for an HPDE weekend, after an appropriate tech inspection of course.

Some people choose to modify their cars to increase performance and others to increase safety. A popular modification made to track cars is the addition of a multi-point harness system. Starting January 1, 2019, the PCA DE Minimum Standards will be expanded to state that if a driver uses a harness system, he or she will ALSO be required to utilize a head and neck restraint system, commonly referred to as a HANS device.

A head and neck restraint device is an integral part of the harness system. Because the rule of equal restraint always applies, if a driver uses a harness system there must also be a harness system available and used by the passenger. Thus, both the driver and passenger will be required to use a HANS device. We highly encourage all DE participants to not wait until 2019 to comply with this new minimum standard. Head and neck restraint system devices are now more affordable and easily purchased online.

The DE Committee’s decision was made over the course of two years after careful review of options, conversations with DE participants and discussion of a variety of perspectives. Please pass on this information to your DE drivers and instructors as soon as possible to avoid any confusion.

How To Manage Your Car During A Track Day

How To Manage Your Car During A Track Day

We have likely had more discussions on how to manage your car at a track day than any other track day discussion.  There is a lot that is just not known by the first time or occasional track day participant. Managing these elements will ensure a safer track day, and extend the life of your tires, car.

The items are fairly simple…but do take attention and some work.  You need to ensure that your car has been prepped for your first track day (see our other blog article), and that you bring the basic tools (see our other blog article).


This is probably the most mis-understood element.  There are two cases here, the participant who drove their car to the track (and intends on driving it home as well), and the one who has trailered their car to / from the event.  We will focus most of our discussion on the participant who drives to / from the event, but the other elements of this discussion will apply to the participant who trailers their car as well.

The main topic here is TIRE PRESSURES.  What tire pressures should be run, when, and how to manage them.  Almost all cars for the North American market have a sticker on the drivers inner door jam that specify what tire pressures are best for that car.  Those pressures are for street, freeway driving, and are usually measured or defined for “COLD” tire temperatures.  You need to know that, and will need to use it when you are preparing to travel home after the event, or even after the day if you are doing multiple day events.  BUT, that pressure is NOT to be used on the track.  (We can have a separate discussion on how those pressures on the door jam sticker are determined so that you can understand those as well, but that is a separate discussion).  Again, the street pressures are NOT the target pressures, neither cold or hot…ignore them.  For MOST DOT approved tires (tires like Michelin SuperSport, Michelin Pilot Sport 4S, Bridgestone S04, Bridgestone RE71R, Nitto NT01, Toyo R888, Toyo R1R, Hankook RS3, Continental ExtremeContact Sport, Pirelli PZero, and more, the target HOT tire pressure is 35 – 36psi.  Remember that, record it somewhere, memorize, subscribe to it!  However, that does not mean that is where we set the tires for the beginning of your session….that is where we want the tire to end up at the end of the session.

Now, there are several factors that need to be considered to determine the best starting tire pressure.  Weather, temperature, humidity, the track being driven, the group you are running with, how long the session will be, and finally, how aggressive you will be during your session.  For first time participants, they likely have a different first session experience than all others.  They may even have an instructor drive their car for the first two or three laps, then they may come in, switch seats, and go back out.

Tire pressures will grow significantly during a session.  The key parameters (friction, slip, weather or ambient temperature, and  humidity) will have a dramatic impact on how much your tire pressures change. You also need to be aware of what your tire is mainly filled with (ambient air, or Nitrogen).  Even if filled w Nitrogen, and purged of almost all humidity, the tire pressures will grow during a track session, just not as much as a tire mainly filled with air.

So, how much will a tire pressure GROW during a session or for the day?  Let’s take a likely scenario, and run through a couple of examples.  CASE “A” is a customer with a 2005 BMW E46 M3.  Case “B” is a customer with a 2011 Porsche Cayman S.  These are both likely or possible first time track cars.  The info here will apply to any car, you just need to factor in the already mentioned variables.

– Time of day for first session = 8:15am
– Track = Thunderhill East course
– Weather temperature = 55 degrees F
– Humidity = 30%
– Tires = Michelin SuperSport
– True first time track session / experience
– Organization = Hooked On Driving (HOD)

Session 1 tire pressures
– Before session, set tire pressures to about 32-33 psi
– At the end of the session, after you roll off the track, and park at your spot, immediately check your tire pressures…if we guessed our starting point right, we should end up at about 35-36psi…we’ll call this our HOT pressure.

Session 2 tire pressures
If we guessed right for Session 1, then, we need to drop our tire pressures by about 1 psi BEFORE we go out for our second session.  For education purposes, it would be good to document your tire pressure management for the day (Session #, cold / starting pressure, hot / finishing  pressures, adjustment made)
If we guessed right for Session 1, and made the adjustment DOWN by 1 psi before the start of session 2, then, at the end of session 2, we should come in at the end of your session, measure HOT tire pressures, and they should be around 35-36psi again.  That is where we want to end up at the end of each session.  If we did end up at 35 psi at the end of session 2, then we will want to want to drop another 1 psi before the start of session 3.  Each session, the temperature of the day is likely rising, your comfort with the track grows, and your speed will likely increase.  All of these combine to increase the friction / heat generated in the tire, and as a result, the tire pressures will continue to grow.
Now, don’t pay a lot of attention to the tire as it cools between sessions…other than to educate yourself on what is going on.
So…what happens if the numbers don’t match to the target ending pressures?  Then, you make an adjustment…it’s like a simple math equation or “if / then” decision matrix statement.
Let’s say you are comfortable w the track, you came up to speed more quickly in Session 2 than we had estimated, and the temperature of the day also got hotter faster than we had estimated.  Then, at the end of session 2, our HOT tire pressures could have been 39 psi instead of the target 35-36psi.  If we wanted to be at 35psi HOT at the end of the session, and we were at 39psi, and we were going to drop the tire pressure by 1 psi, then we need to alter our adjustment, and relieve the tire pressure by 5 psi prior to the start of the next session.

Session 3 tire pressures
Assuming that we stay w the facts and variables of our first session, we should have ended Session 2 at 25-36psi, and we would need to adjust down yet again our tire pressures by another 1 psi.  If we end up above or below the HOT target pressures at the end of the session, then we would factor that into our adjustment equation.

Session 4 tire pressures
The same will hold true for session 4.  At the end of session 3, we need to adjust down again our tire pressures by 1 psi.

Session 5 tire pressures
Normally, for session 5, we will NOT need to make any adjustments, as the tires, the weather, your level of driving, the track, the humidity, do not change, and we won’t need to make any change for the last session of the day, or if you have even more sessions, it is likely you will be fine…..but, measure to verify no matter what.

CASE B (Porsche Cayman S, 987, 2011)
– Time of day for first session = 8:15am
– Track = Thunderhill East course
– Weather temperature = 55 degrees F
– Humidity = 30%
– Tires = Michelin Pilot 4S
– 1st track event of the year, has done over 20 track days before
– Organization = Hooked On Driving (HOD)
– Run Group B (running without an instructor)

The main facts that have changed are the experience of the driver, and the speed of the car.

Session 1 tire pressures
– Before session, set tire pressures to about 29 psi
– At the end of the session, after you roll off the track, and park at your spot, immediately check your tire pressures…if we guessed our starting point right, we should end up at about 35-36psi…we’ll call this our HOT pressure.

Session 2 tire pressures
If we guessed right for Session 1, then, we need to drop our tire pressures by about 2 psi BEFORE we go out for our second session.  If we guessed right for Session 1, and made the adjustment DOWN by 2 psi before the start of session 2, then, at the end of session 2, we should come in at the end of your session, measure HOT tire pressures, and they should be around 35-36psi again.  That is where we want to end up at the end of each session.  If we did end up at 35 psi at the end of session 2, then we will want to want to drop another 1 1/2 psi before the start of session 3.  Each session, the temperature of the day is likely rising, your comfort with the track grows, and your speed will likely increase.  All of these combine to increase the friction / heat generated in the tire, and as a result, the tire pressures will continue to grow. We are adjusting more in Case B than in Case A mainly due to the speed of the car, and the aggressiveness of the driver.

So…what happens if the numbers don’t match to the target ending pressures?  Then, you make an adjustment just like in Case A…it’s like a simple math equation or “if / then” decision matrix statement.
Let’s say you are comfortable w the track, you came up to speed more quickly in Session 2 than we had estimated, and the temperature of the day also got hotter faster than we had estimated.  Then, at the end of session 2, our HOT tire pressures could have been 39 psi instead of the target 35-36psi.  If we wanted to be at 35psi HOT at the end of the session, and we were at 39psi, and we were going to drop the tire pressure by 1 1/2 psi, then we need to alter our adjustment, and relieve the tire pressure by 5 1/2 psi prior to the start of the next session.

Session 3 tire pressures
Assuming that we stay w the facts and variables of our first session, we should have ended Session 2 at 25-36psi, and we would need to adjust down yet again our tire pressures by another 1 psi.  If we end up above or below the HOT target pressures at the end of the session, then we would factor that into our adjustment equation.

Session 4 tire pressures
The same will hold true for session 4.  At the end of session 3, we need to adjust down again our tire pressures by just 1/2 psi.  Due to the agressiveness of the driver, and the speed of the laps, the tires will have normalized more quickly.

Session 5 tire pressures
Normally, for session 5, we will NOT need to make any adjustments, as the tires, the weather, your level of driving, the track, the humidity, do not change, and we won’t need to make any change for the last session of the day, or if you have even more sessions, it is likely you will be fine…..but, measure to verify no matter what.

Going Home or to the Hotel For the Night (either Case A or Case B)
Look back on what we have done….we started the tire pressures very low at the start of the day, and continued to relieve pressures…if we do the math, the effective COLD pressures could now be in the 23-25psi range…no where near where the door jam recommends.  Therefore, we need to INFLATE the tires to get them to near the door jam pressures.

One other KEY point…in all our references for track pressure, we are targeting the SAME tire pressures for all four tires, front and rear (or symmetrical).  It is very likely that your car does NOT specify that the front and rear tire pressures be the same for street driving.  That is correct….we want our track HOT pressures to be around 35-36psi HOT for all four tires, front and rear, but for street driving, we want our front and rear tire pressures to match those COLD tire pressures the manufacturer has defined and posted on the door jam.

Just a couple of points on fuel.  This is guidance for a new track user…not a long time, aggressive or time trialer. We would suggest that you never let your fuel load get before 1/4 tank.  If it looks like you are going to start the session at 1/4 tank, then we would suggest that you add fuel before your session.

We have seen cases, under “G-loading” in the corners, where street cars can starve when the fuel load is at 1/4 tank or less.  Most people will consume about 3-5 gallons a session (assuming a normal 20-25 minute session).

At the same time, we would suggest running your fuel load at about the 3/4 full level.  We do not know of any issue of running the tank full, but if your car is older, and the fuel caps not quite as strong, you can get some leakage or fuel bypass.

Check your fuel load right after each session….not right before the start of your session.

WHEELS / Lug Bolts / Center Locks
Two items here….too many users don’t check their wheel lug bolts / wheel nuts / wheel studs / center lock nuts at all.  WRONG!  You need to check them before every session.

However, we have also seen many, almost everyone, who does follow the above rule, abuse the car or equipment…as most do not understand the basic principal of “torquing” a fastener, whatever type it is.

Let’s say you were going to check your wheel lug bolts before the start of the day and then after every session.  You DO NOT go an just put the torque wrench on the lug bolt, and test it. WRONG, WRONG, WRONG…if you do that, in a couple of track days, you will SHEAR the lug bolts, and induce a severe safety issue.  You also do NOT want to test the torque right after your car has come off the track….the wheels, brakes, etc are very hot, and you can over torque a fastener when it is hot. Wait till the car and systems have cooled, or right before the start of your next session. To check the wheel lug torque (and first, you must know what the proper wheel lug bolt, wheel nut /stud, or center lock nut torque value is), you first LOOSEN the wheel fastener slightly, and then proceed to torque the fastener to the proper value.

If you have a car with any version of “center lock” wheels…check with your manufacturer, and get their procedure for how this is to be performed (when Porsche came out w their center lock hubs / wheels / nuts on the 997.2 911 GT3 or GT3RS, they wrote a 5 page article on how to torque the center locks…and we have watched almost ALL Porsche owners not follow the proper procedure….and we have seen where a wheel hub on multiple Porsche GT3’s / GT3RS’s has been sheared off during a track session…not what you want to happen to your car).  Be aware of the proper tools needed to do this, and the torque values.

Realize wheel STUDS / nuts have different torque values than lug bolts when installed on the same car.  The defined torque is determined by the metal type, strength, and size.

The  simple rule here is do not ignore the driver…keep yourself hydrated, visit the bathroom often, wear the proper clothes, and bring sunscreen.

Hope these thoughts have helped prepare you for your events, whether you are a first time participant or an aged track junkie.  It should be fun, safe, and exhilarating.

Let us know if you have any questions about any of our info or articles.

BRracing – expertise at your finger tips

What To Expect At Your Track Day

What To Expect At Your Track Day

There is nothing more exciting than to take your car to the track, and drive it at speed on the track.  The anticipation, eagerness, anxiety build as the day / event approaches.  So, to help you feel a little better about the experience, we are writing this article to let you know what to expect. (We wrote the first article about what to take to your track day, and we will follow this up with how to manage your car at your track day).

There are lots of track organizations in our area (PCA (Porsche Club of America), BMWCCA (BMW Car Club of America), Ferrari Club, Hooked On Driving (HOD), NASA, SCCA, SpeedSF, My Private Track Day, NCRC, and many more).  Each runs the day a little different, and some in our view, run a much better track day than the others (we prefer PCA, BMWCCA, HOD).

We’ll assume for the purposes of this article that you had done either none, or very few track days. The first item to understand then is the schedule, and we’ll cover not only the day, but leading up to the event as well.

  • 4+ weeks before the event:
    • Sign up for the event, get your registration verification (do not assume that there will be capacity for the event just days before the event, most events fill up weeks in advance….there are a LOT of people doing this).
    • If your event is at a track like Thunderhill, Buttonwillow, Willow Springs, Spring Mountain or farther away, make your travel plans and hotel plans, or if you are doing a multiple day event
    • Go online, find some in car videos of the track, watch them as many times as you can (doesn’t need to be in a car like yours or a speed like yours)
  • A week + before the event:
    • Have your car fully inspected (either by yourself, or by a professional shop). You need to have more than 50% remaining on your brake pads, your brake rotors need to be above minimum thickness, your tires need to be in good condition (depending on whether your track day will be wet or dry will determine how much tread remaining you need to have), get an oil change, get the transmission / differential fluid changed, check all fluids, ensure there is no evidence of any cooling system leaks or other fluid leaks, make sure there are no loose items anywhere, check all other fluid levels, make sure there are no active “codes /errors” in any of the systems in your car, make sure all wheel lug bolts or wheel studs are in good condition, make sure your car alignment is in good condition or correct
    • Get your brake fluid changed, and upgraded (do not go to your first event with stock brake fluid or brake fluid that has not been changed in less than 2 years)
    • Gather and pack all your stuff (see our other article on what to bring to your track day)
    • Get the Tech Form for the event, print it out
    • Get the Schedule for the event, print it out
    • Get a MAP of the track, print it out, memorize it, and bring it with you to the event
    • Pick a car “NUMBER” for your car, with some options
    • Get car numbers printed, or use tape, and put the numbers on your car (all groups require numbers on the sides, and most require the numbers to be at least 8″ tall for the sides), some groups require numbers on the front and rear of the car as well, make sure you know in advance
  • 2 Days before the event
    • Pack your car
  • Day Of The Event
    • Get to the track between 6:30 and 7am
    • Determine where you want to park your car for the event
      • Find your spot, park
      • Lay out your tarp or blanket, unload all your stuff onto the tarp
      • Get everything you can out of the car, leave no coins, bottles, papers…there should be nothing inside your car, inside your trunk
      • Lay out your tools for ready access
      • If you haven’t already put the numbers on your car, put them on
    • Go to registration, make sure you are registered
    • Submit your tech inspection form, signed by you
    • Confirm the schedule for the day, verify if any changes
    • Confirm where the initial event meeting is to take place
    • Get the understanding of where “pre-grid” is (where you go in your car before you get released onto the track), where track entrance is
    • Go relax, get some fluids in your body
    • Go to the first meeting (required for all participants)
    • Understand when your first session is, you want to be ready 30 mins in advance (if you are the first group of the day, this means you needed to have your car ready before the first main meeting of the day)
  • 15 + minutes before your session
    • Get in your car, have your helmet / gear w you in the car
    • Drive to the “pre-grid” area
    • If you are having an instructor, let them know, and get introduced to your instructor
    • Review w your instructor how the two of you are going to communicate (in car “chat” system, or vocal / hand communication)
    • Get your helmet on, seat belt or belts on, gear on
    • Start your car, ensure its warmed up
    • If you are running cameras….turn them on, start the recording
  • Session
    • Use the first lap out to warm up the brakes, warm up your brain, warm up the tires (do not try to go out quickly)
    • Many track groups, if this truly your first time at that track or with that organization, will have the instructor drive the first 2 or 3 laps with you in the passenger seat to allow you to gain familiarity with the track, scenery, layout, then will pull into the “hot” pits, and swap seats.
    • Get your self situated, comfortable, mirrors adjusted, and go back onto the track, and have FUN
  • Last Lap
    • Once the checkered flag has been thrown, use the last lap as your “cool down” lap…to cool the brakes, cool the tires, and get your heart rate and breathing back to normal
    • Some track throw the checkered flag at two locations…if you get the short checkered (like at Laguna Seca, they often throw the checkered flag at start/finish, AND between Turn 6 and Turn 7, at Thunderhill they often will also throw the checkered flag at Turn 11)
    • IF you get a “short” cool down lap, when you come into the pits, drive your car around the pits and do a LAP in the pits to allow your car and items to cool down
    • You do not want to park your car immediately after coming off the track with your brakes incredibly hot…and if you get out of your car, and hear the brakes singing to you (ting, ting, ting), then you did not do an adequate job of cooling your car on the cool down lap….take note.
  • After the session
    • Drop your instructor off at the designated area
    • Park your car in your spot
    • Turn off your cameras
    • Get out of your car, get all your gear off
    • Get some fluids in you
    • If possible, get some immediate points from your instructor on key items to work on
    • Go to the “download” group meeting
    • Relax….enjoy, smile….review the session in your mind, set your objectives on the few items (pick one or two) that you want to focus on for your next session
  • At the end of the day
    • Pack up all your stuff
    • Check your car over for the drive home
    • Check and raise your tire pressures for the drive home (the drive home will cool the tires, and they will lose a lot of air pressure…make sure you are set…plus, track tire pressures and road tire pressures are drastically different….see our next blog article on how to manage your car once at the track)

Have FUN.  There is nothing like it…but, be fore warned…it is addictive, and habit forming.

BRracing – providing the expertise when ever you need it – proven, leaders, your friends

What To Take To Your Next Track Day

What To Take To Your Next Track Day

We have a LOT of customers who participate in track days (meaning the chance to take your car, and drive at speed on one of our regional race tracks).  But we often are asked many questions about the day, the experience, how it will go, what do they need to do to their car, and what to take.  We will attempt to answer those questions in these next three blog articles (what to take, what to expect on your track day, and how to get the most from your track day).

With the freeways and backroads becoming more and more congested, and yet, at the same time, the cars becoming ever so amazing to drive, where is the opportunity to get out and really drive?  That is one of the many reasons track days are exploding…there are track days at our local tracks every day of the week, all year long (Laguna Seca, Sonoma Raceway, Thunderhill Raceway, Buttonwillow Raceway are the tracks within easy driving distance).

Participating in a track day in your own car may open up a whole new world to you (and, as we tell everyone, this is a very slippery slope, and for many of us, turns into an addiction…an addiction of the best kind, but it can also be a slippery slope into a more expensive endeavor).  The track day may seen a stretch…but for those that venture into this SPORT, driving on a track is an experience they won’t soon forget….and will want to repeat as often as possible (time and money determining the frequency).

First things first, there are a number of things that you need to do BEFORE you go, and a number of things you need to take with you when you do go to ensure the probability of success.


There are many track day organizations (Porsche Club of America (PCA), Audi Club, BMW Car Club of America (BMWCCA), Hooked On Driving (HOD), Shelby Club, SpeedSF, NCRC, Speed District, NASA (National Auto Sport Association), SCCA (Sports Car Club of America), Pacific Track Time…and the list goes on.  Some of these are really good for first time track events (PCA, HOD, BMWCCA), some better suited to the experienced event participant (NCRC, SpeedSF, Pacific Track Time, Speed District, NASA, SCCA).  Each track organization has their own rules and regulations, and track tech inspection requirements.  Regardless of what they require, make sure you get a thorough car inspection done by a shop.  Nothing ruins a track day faster, and the whole experience for you, than to have some go wrong that could have been prevented by simple car maintenance.

The main thing…you want your tires to have sufficient tread, you want your brake pads to have OVER 50% pad life remaining, you want your brake rotors to not have any serious thermal or stress cracks, be above minimum thickness, you want your brake lines to be in excellent condition, you want NO LEAKS or evidence of possible leaks, you want all your fluids to be the right level, and you want your fluids to be clean, clear, and without any corrosion.

Brake fluid is a subject into itself…but to make this easy, ensure you have your brake fluid changed, and UPGRADED before your first track day…no questions here.  We supply six different grades / levels / quality of brake fluid for our customers, and all are better than stock DOT 4 fluid.  The better the fluid you install, the better your experience will be, and the more duress your braking system will be able to take.  (Examples: StopTech 600, Motul 600, StopTech 660, Motul 660, Brembo HTC 64t, Endless 650….we are not a big fan of the Castrol synthetic brake fluid).  Just because you upgraded your brake fluid also does not mean it doesn’t need to be bled and changed regularly.  We normally use the rule of thumb that every track mile is equivalent to 10 street miles, the same applies to age or time.  If you had a racing car, we bleed and flush the brake fluid EVERY DAY.  For frequent and aggressive track day participants…flushing the brake fluid every 6 track days is a fair approach.

There is also a misconception…many of our customers think that driving their car on the track is no different in terms of wear on their car than normal street driving…..this is NOT the case.  We see customers start to take their cars to the track, and do several events, and everything is fine…so, they continue the experience, about after a year…all of a sudden, things start to go wrong on their car, and their comment is, “the car has run perfect for over a year, what’s going on?”….well, they haven’t done the ongoing maintenance to their car that the track abuse will induce…and things will wear out or break.  So, be forewarned and prepared.  It’s not a big deal, but the track use does change the whole maintenance program and schedule.

Other fluids to consider upgrading or changing before your first track day – transmission fluid (manual transmissions), differential fluid, and have an oil change performed.

So, now you’ve had your brake fluid done, an oil change performed, your car inspected, your ready to go.

So, what should you take to the track?

Here is the list…some items are more optional, but we will list them all to be fully inclusive (and to some degree, after our decades of doing this, we never seem to have everything we need) –

  • glass / window cleaner
  • paper towels, clean rags
  • at least one liter of engine oil
  • some brake fluid (same type as you just had flushed into the car)
  • tire guage
  • wheel lug bolt socket, or center lock socket
  • your car’s “TOW HOOK” (install before event)
  • socket set, some socket wrenches
  • screw driver set
  • torque wrench (for normal 5-lug wheels, or the special type for center lock hubs)
  • tarp or blanket (to set all the stuff on when you unload your car at the event)
  • helmet (has to be a race car helmet, not a motorcycle helmet, SNELL 2015 or newer)
  • duct tape, blue painters tape (1/2″ size, 3″ size)
  • work gloves
  • car cleaner solutions, other cleaners
  • camera, Go-Pro type devices (can never have too many cameras)
  • car jack, jack stands
  • cordless impact wrench (that matches to your socket set and wheel lug socket)
  • extra brake pads (and the knowledge how to change your own pads at the track)
  • extra car numbers (usually each car is required to have car numbers on both sides of the car, front, and some the rear too)…have to be the size required by the organization you are running with
  • water, snacks, a chair to sit on between events
  • proper clothing for the event, type of weather (see also the organizations requirements for types of clothes allowed to be worn in the car when on the track)…proper shoes for driving

There is still more…you can never have enough, and why many of our customers have us transport their cars. Example of all the extra stuff we normally bring / carry in our trailers for track events (race events go way beyond this as well):  spare wheels / tires, all the fluids you could possibly imagine, a rolling large tool chest, nitrogen tanks, air hoses, double up jacks, lifts, air tools, hardware, fasteners, die grinders, nibblers, spare parts (body parts, brake rotors, brake pads, brake hoses), EZups or trailer canopies, chairs, tables, snacks, food, drinks, coolers, and more.

Most customers will get a container of some type that fits perfect in their car to put most of the above into.  That’s why you arrive early on your track day, unload your car, prep your car, and be ready prior to the first orientation meeting.  Also makes it easier to clean up, pack up at the end of the day when you are worn out.

Next…check out our article on what to expect on your first track day.

BRracing – experience and expertise to make your lives so much better



MINI Cooper S F56 – Sinister

There is a common evolution happening with the newer cars. In an effort to gain market share, each manufacturer is making their cars better and better, and with more enthusiast options available.  BMW has probably gone the farthest…you can now order your new BMW w full coil-overs, adjustable shocks, different suspension bushings, carbon fiber bits, sport exhaust, different wheels…all the normal after market parts can now be had from the dealer / manufacturer, with the full manufacturer warranty.

So, there is less and less that “needs” to be done to the car to enhance it…..but there is indeed, still room for improvement.  Just because the manufacturer has upgrade options, does not mean they either match your objectives / desires, or they are the best.

Hence, we continue with project cars that customers desire to upgrade and make their own, put their personal touch on their car.  Here is another example on the recent, Gen 3 MINI Cooper. This generation is the first “all BMW” designed and parts sourced MINI.  Both Gen 1 and Gen 2 had motors sourced from other manufacturers, and, as a result, the first to incorporate all BMW ideas. Sometimes we see cars when they are very used, some with low miles, but on multiple occassions, we get them like this project, where the car basically came straight from the dealership to BRracing for the upgrades to be installed.

Nick was going to tackle his upgrades in several phases, and this is the first phase (suspension, wheels, tires).  Next up will be “tuning” of the engine performance.  If you haven’t driven the new F56 model MINI, it is quite different from the early gen MINIs….in all areas.  Interior, exterior, power (much more), suspension (not the harsh ride of the early MINIs), and exhaust.


When it comes to upgrading suspension, first, obviously, we need to understand the needs and uses.  But the pieces to be changed / altered are almost always the same (springs, sway bars, struts / shocks, bushings, camber plates, control arms)….which are done, and in what order just depends on the needs.  For this customer, we were going about half way down the slippery slope….coil-overs (springs, struts), adjustable, rear sway bar.  But not camber plates, nor control arms or bushings.

This customer selected BC Racing coil-overs.  Simple, very inexpensive, and available (not many kits available at this time for the new MINI).

Besides getting adjustable struts…with true coil-overs, you gain a wide range of height adjustment with the threaded spring collars on the strut bodies (front, rear is by adjustable spring perches on the control arm).  Some coil-overs only provide a small amount of height adjustment range…but w these BC units, we had a huge range of adjustment.  Once we had the height and “rake” set, we just needed to update the alignment w a more aggressive set of values, and the suspension was set.

For the MINI, we normally only need to do the rear sway bar, not the front.  We would prefer not to have to do sway bars at all…but for the MINI, we just need to increase the rear roll rate, which helps in initial turn in, and dials out the slight understeer for the car.  With an adjustable rear bar, you can dial into the car the amount of rear end responsiveness.  Since the bar is already stiffer than stock, usually the softer setting of the stiffer rear bar is sufficient.  The bar implemented is a NM Engineering bar, with adjustable sway bar end links and bushings.


For brakes, the pieces are the same, but the options within those pieces are not (rotors, calipers, pads, stainless steel brake lines, brake fluid).  One of the determining factors is the wheels that the brake solution needs to fit within.  For MINIs…if you consider a true BBK (Big Brake Kit), then you have to start with 18″ diameter wheels.  If you want to stay within the normal 17″ wheels, then you can consider the MINI JCW brake upgrade option.

We could detail a long dialogue on brake pads…and you really have four options: stock, ceramic, street performance, or track.  Within those pad options, you need to consider three features (noise, bite or friction, and dust). You get to pick two of the three, but rarely can you get the best of all worlds in all three elements ……you can’t get no noise, high bite, and no dust.  If you pick ceramic…you get no dust, you get no noise, but bite / friction is less than stock.  If you pick track, then you get noise, almost no dust, and great bite.  Street / Performance is where most street cars land….less dust, most of the time no noise, and better bite than stock (about 10% better than stock).

The complete JCW (John Cooper Works) solution, for both front and rear includes all the following: front vented, slotted, dimpled rotors (larger), front four piston calipers, street / performance pad set, new dust backing plates, rear single piston calipers, larger rear solid rotors, rear caliper mounts, stainless steel brake lines (front and rear)…..both JCW calipers painted red.

Just what the customer wanted…. a sinister looking, riding, handling new MINI.



The “go to” solution with MINI Coopers is the NM Engineering wheel set….for this car, it is the NM Engr RSe11 in 18″ x 7.5″ and black.

With the new wheels and tires as well….this MINI wants to carve up some mountain roads.  LET’s MOTOR!